Tuning of the Stabilization System

　　Stabilizer Function - Stabilizers are supposed to help hold the bow still, and minimize the impact of any mistakes that the shooter may make.

　　Stabilizer History - Prior to 2009, stabilizers were used mostly to take vibration out of the bow, not to help hold the bow still. People used weights on the end of rods for a specific reaction after the shot, not for a good holding pattern.

　　Modern Use of Stabilizers - Stabilizers are now used to help an archer hold more still on the target. This allows him to execute a confident shot, resulting in tighter groups down range. All of the weight in the rod itself has been moved out to the end of the bar to give more effective leverage against the shooter, further strengthening this effect.

　　Four Principles of Stabilizing

　　There are four simple principles to help adjust the stabilization system to make your aiming pattern as tight as possible.

　　Front to Back Balance

　　Left to Right Balance

　　Rod Length

　　Overall System Mass Weight

　　Front to Back Balance should be tuned first. This is very simple. If the sight/bow wants to dip down when executing a shot, there is too much weight out on the long rod, or too little weight on the side rods. Inversely, if the bow wants to rise when executing a shot, there is not enough weight on the front, or too much weight on the back. Once the sight picture has the bow holding decently up and down, move on to the next step.

　　Right to Left Balance tuning works just like the front to back tuning. If the bow wants to move right on execution, take weight from the right sidebar and move it left. If the bow moves left on execution, take weight from the left sidebar and move it right.

　　Rod Length is important. The longer the rod, the more leverage the weight on the end has against the bow. For example, a 16" rod with 8 ounces on it has 60% more leverage then a 10" bar with the same weight on it. Too long a rod may cause the aiming pattern to become unreliable.

　　The Overall Mass Weight of the system matters a great deal. In general, more weight makes for a steadier bow; however, too much mass weight on the bow can also increase the variability of the aiming pattern. If there are issues that cannot be resolved with the above principles, try taking a couple of ounces of weight off the bars.

　　Changing the Mass Weight - If a different mass weight is desired, add or subtract weight in the same ratio that it is already on the bars.

　　Example: If you have 6 ounces on the stabilizer and 6 on each v-bar, that's a 2:1 ratio, back to front. To keep the same ratio, adding 3 ounces to the front rod requires adding 6 ounces total to the side rods.

　　Left to right balance must also be taken into consideration. If there is an uneven split on the side rods, then any new weight must be distributed in the same ratio.

　　Example: Suppose you have a 2:1 back to front ratio (6 ounces on the front and 12 ounces in the back); and your left to right ratio is also 2:1, with 8 ounces on the left v-bar and 4 on the right. In this situation, if you add 3 ounces to the front and 6 ounces to the back,then those back 6 ounces need to be distributed, left to right, in the same fashion, mirroring your current 2:1 left to right ratio. So you would put 4 of the 6 ounces on the left, and the remaining 2 ounces on the right, keeping the same ratio left to right.

　　This is not an exact system due to the angles of the v-bar bracket, but this will put you close to the same holding pattern.

　　Fine Tuning of the bow's holding pattern comes next.

　　Aluminum Weights - Using a weight of less than one ounce is one way to tune the holding pattern more finely.

　　Double Adjustable V-Bar Bracket - Another fine-tuning method uses a double adjustable v-bar bracket, with which super-fine adjustments can be made to

　　Front to Back -The v-bars help balance out the long rod and act as a lever arm against it. The specific angle of the rod is not important, but the straight line distance in a given axis is what will finely tune the balance. The picture below shows that when you drop the v-bar down, it effectively shortens the lever arm against the front rod. Shortening this lever arm basically moves the weight forward and will make the bow want to dip more. This type of adjustment is what will really make a difference between a decent holding pattern and a perfect one.

　　As you can see in the picture below, the further down the side rod is placed, the further the weights are moved towards the front of the bow.

　　Left to Right - The same principle is also true in a left to right axis of planes. If the bow moves right on execution, slightly move the left v-bar left or the right v-bar left. This will also affect the front to rear balance slightly, but is arguably negligible.

　　Using an Extension - Deciding whether or not to use an extension also is a question of stabilization. With no extension, the control point of the stabilization system (the bow grip) moves closer to the central point of the weights. However, a bow without an extension has a slightly different holding pattern even when finely tuned, compared to a setup with an extension.

　　All of these adjustments need to be made prior to getting a final tune. As you change balance points, this will affect how the bow tunes, especially the nocking point height.

　　Bare-shaft and Walk-back Tuning

　　Bare-shaft Tuning is the basis of all tuning with a recurve. For outdoor shooting, it is primarily done at 30M, while indoor is usually done at 18M. This is done by shooting several bare shafts and fletched shafts together, and then seeing where they hit in relation to each other. Analyzing this information will allow the shooter to make adjustments to the bow, resulting in better arrow flight and grouping.

　　Begin With a Rough Tune - Before getting the tune perfect, get a rough tune. If the bare shafts and fletched shafts land within a reasonable distance from each other, that is good enough at this point.

　　What defines "reasonable distance" is different for all skill levels. Some may feel comfortable with 6 arrows (3 fletched and 3 bare) to all be in the gold at 30M on a 80 cm target before moving on to walk-back tuning.

　　Set the Center Shot - The first step is to get the center shot set for the dynamic performance of the arrow. You want to know what your arrow is actually doing in real life situations, instead of depending on the old-school method of setting it at brace height. So, you'll perform what is called a walk-back tune.

　　Start with a target bale about 10M away from you. Put a dot at the very top of the bale to aim at, and sight in for that dot. Then, either run a plumb bob to the bottom of the bale or draw a line 90 degrees to the ground (the black dotted line in the picture below.) An inaccurate line here will give a false reading on the center shot, so it is very critical to get that part as perfect as possible.

　　Next, shoot a couple of arrows at 10M. Take 5-7 steps back, always aiming at the same dot at the top of the bale without moving the sight. Keep shooting more arrows (every 5-7 steps) and continue walking back this until you are almost missing the bottom of the bale.

　　Now, look at where the arrows landed. Are they all the same distance away from the vertical line you drew? If your shots taper off to one side or the other, then the center shot is not set correctly. If your arrow pattern tapers right (red line), then the center shot is too far in. Move it out slightly, then repeat the walk-back. If your arrow pattern tapers left (yellow line), the center shot is too far out. Move it in slightly, then repeat the walk-back.

　　If the center shot that yields from this adjustment is way out of an acceptable range, you should look for another problem that may be causing this, such as clearance or form issues.

　　Alternate Bare and Fletched - When doing the final bare-shaft tune, shoot the fletched shafts and bare shafts in alternating fashion: one fletched, one bare, one fletched one bare and so on.

　　Do this with at least 3 of each, so that you do not get a false reading on a bad arrow or a poorly shot one. Alternating in this manner helps prevent the shooter from treating the arrows differently and getting a different arrow flight because of it.

　　For a right-handed shooter, if the bare shafts land to the right of the fletched shafts (yellow arrow and nocks in picture below,) they are too weak and adjustments need to be made. If the bare shafts land to the left of the fletched ones (green arrow and nocks in picture below,) the arrows are too stiff.

　　Ways to Make Arrows Act Weaker:

　　Increase bow weight

　　Increase point weight

　　Increase arrow length

　　Increase brace height

　　Decrease plunger tension

　　Increase strand count in string*

　　Use regular nocks (pin nocks stiffen arrow)

　　Use a longer bow (72" vs. 70")

　　Ways to Make Arrows Act Stiffer:

　　Decrease bow weight

　　Decrease point weight

　　Decrease arrow length

　　Decrease brace height

　　Increase plunger tension

　　Decrease strand count in string*

　　Use pin nocks over regular nocks

　　Use a shorter bow (68" vs. 70")

　　* Regarding Bowstring Strand Count - It is a common misconception that increasing the strand count will always make an arrow act stiffer. This is in fact true at very low strand counts (such as 10 strands of BCY-8125); however, that low a strand count is not recommended for forgiveness purposes. Generally, above 18 strands is where you will start noticing that an increase in strands will weaken the arrow.

　　Tuning the Nocking Point - Once you have the bare shafts showing an acceptable range of stiffness, you will need to adjust the nocking point to get the porpoising of the arrow to a minimum.

　　Alternate Bare and Fletched - Shoot three bare shafts and three fletched shafts, again in alternating fashion.

　　If the bare shafts land below the fletched shafts (yellow arrow and nocks in picture below,) the nocking point is too high. To correct this, move the nocking point down on the string or move the arrow rest up.

　　If the bare shafts land above the fletched shafts (green arrow and nocks in picture below,) move the nocking point up or the arrow rest down.

　　Spine Affects Nocking Point - Keep in mind that adjustments to the stiffness/weakness of the arrows might slightly affect the best nocking point location. Changing the nocking point can affect the spine of the arrow as well, so be prepared to see your settings change slightly.

　　5。

　　稳定系统的调谐

　　稳定器功能稳定剂应该有助于保持弓，和减少任何错误，射手可能产生的影响。

　　稳定剂的历史前2009，稳定剂主要用于把振动的弓，不帮助保持船头仍然。人们用重棒结束后拍摄了一个特定的反应，而不是一个好的控股模式。

　　现代使用的稳定剂，稳定剂现在用来帮助射手持有更多的还是在目标。这让他执行一个自信的镜头，从而更紧密的群体范围。所有的重量在杆本身已经搬到了结束的酒吧提供更有效的杠杆对射手，进一步加强这种效果。

　　稳定的四个原则

　　有助调节稳定系统，使你的目标模式尽可能紧四个简单的原则。

　　前后平衡

　　从左到右的平衡

　　杆长度

　　整个系统的重量

　　前后平衡应调整第一。这是非常简单的。如果看见/弓想下来执行一个镜头时，有了长杆的重量太大，或者太小的重量在侧杆。相反，如果弓想站起来执行一个镜头时，没有在前面的足够的重量，或太多的重量在后面。一旦瞄准图像具有持弓体面的向上和向下，进入下一步。

　　左权平衡调整工作就像前后调整。如果弓想立刻执行，从右边栏以重量和移动它离开。如果弓左上执行的动作，从侧边栏以重量和移动它的权利。

　　杆的长度是重要的。长杆，杠杆的一端与弓更重。例如，一个16杆，8盎司，它有60%更多的杠杆，然后一个10”酒吧与它相同的重量。太长的杆可能会导致目标模式变得不可靠。

　　系统的整体重量的影响很大。在一般情况下，更多的重量，使一个稳定的弓;然而，太多的重量在弓也可以增加目标模式的变化。如果有问题，不能与上述原则解决，尝试以几盎司的重量从酒吧。

　　改变重量-如果一个不同的质量要求，加上或减去的重量在同一比，它已经在酒吧。

　　例如：如果你有6盎司的稳定剂和6各V-bar，那是2:1的比率，回到前面。保持同样的比例，加入3盎司的前杆需要添加6盎司总侧杆。

　　从左到右的平衡还必须考虑。如果有在侧杆上不均匀的分裂，那么任何新的重量必须分布在相同的比例。

　　例如：假设你有一个2:1的正反比(6盎司和12盎司的前面，在后面);和你的左到右的比例也为2:1，在左咁8盎司和4在右边。在这种情况下，如果你加3盎司和6盎司的前面到后面，然后后面的6盎司需要分布式的，从左到右，以同样的方式，反映了当前2:1左右比。所以你要把4的6盎司的左边，而剩下的2盎司的右边，保持相同的比例从左到右。

　　这是不是由于V-bar支架的角度精确的系统，但这将使你接近相同的控股模式。

　　好的弓的控股模式调整接下来。

　　铝的重量-重量少于一盎司是调整的控股模式更精细的方法之一。

　　双调V-bar支架-另一个微调方法使用一个双调V-bar支架，与超精细的调整，可以使

　　前后的v-bars帮助平衡的长杆，作为对它的杠杆臂。杆的角度是不重要的，但在一个给定的轴的直线距离是什么将微调平衡。下面的图片显示，当你放下V-bar下来，它有效地缩短了杠杆臂与前杆。缩短这个杠杆臂基本移动重量并将弓要更加。这种调整是什么真的会使一个体面的控股模式和一个完美的之间的差异。

　　正如你可以看到下面的图片，进一步向下侧杆放置，进一步的重量移向船头前面。

　　从左到右-同样的原则在从左到右轴也是真实的飞机。如果弓动作正确执行，稍微移动左咁咁左左或右。这也会影响前后平衡点，但可以说是微不足道的。

　　使用扩展决定是否使用一个扩展的稳定也是一个问题。没有扩展，稳定系统的控制点(弓握)越来越接近的权重的中心点。然而，弓没有延伸有一个稍微不同的控股模式即使微调，相比一个扩展安装程序。

　　所有这些调整需要得到最后的调整之前。当你改变平衡点，这将如何影响弓的曲调，尤其是箭扣高度。

　　赤裸的轴往回走，调谐

　　赤裸的轴调整是所有调谐与反曲弓的基础上。在室外拍摄的，主要是在30米，而室内通常是在1800万。这是由拍摄几赤裸的轴和带羽毛的轴在一起做，然后看看他们打在彼此间的关系。分析这个信息会让射手调整弓，导致更好的箭头飞行和分组。

　　开始用粗糙的调整之前，调整完善，得到粗调。如果赤裸的轴，则轴的土地在一个合理的距离，在这一点是好的。

　　什么是“合理的距离”是所有技能水平的不同。有些人可能会觉得舒适的6支箭(3则和3赤裸的)均在黄金在30m在80厘米的目标之前，走回调整。

　　设置中心拍摄的第一步是获得中心拍摄的箭头的动态性能。你想知道你的箭实际上是现实生活中的情况下做的，而不是取决于设置在支撑高度的老方法。所以，你会做什么叫走调。

　　从一个目标包约1000万远离你。把一个点的包很高的目标，及视力的那点。然后，运行一个铅锤的包底或画线90度到地面(黑色虚线下面的图片。)这里不准确的线将在中心拍摄了错误的读数，因此得到的那部分尽可能完美的它是非常关键的。

　　接下来，射几箭在10m。收回5-7步骤，总是针对在包上一点无视线的移动。让拍摄更多的箭(每5-7步骤)和继续走回这直到你几乎丢失的包底。

　　现在，看看那里的箭头降落。他们都是相同的距离的垂直线是你画的?如果你的镜头逐渐向一侧或另一侧，然后中心镜头的设置不正确。如果你的箭头图案锥度右(红线)，然后击中心太远。移动它略，然后重复走回来。如果你的箭头图案锥度左(黄色线)，中心杆太远了。移动它略，然后重复走回来。

　　如果中心拍摄，从这一调整产量超出可接受的范围内，你应该找另一个问题可能会导致此问题，如间隙或形式。

　　交替赤裸的和三百万-做最后的赤裸的轴调整时，在交替的方式拍摄则轴和赤裸的轴：一则，一赤裸的，一则一赤裸的等等。

　　这样做至少有3个，这样你就不会得到一个坏的箭头或拍摄一个错误的读数。交流以这种方式有助于防止射手治疗箭不同，获得不同的箭头飞行因为它。

　　一个右撇子射手，如果赤裸的轴的土地权则轴(在下面的图片，黄色箭头和箭尾)他们太弱，需要进行调整。如果赤裸的轴的土地则的左(在下面的图片，绿色箭头和箭尾)箭太硬。

　　制箭法较弱的方式：

　　增加弓重量

　　增加一点重量

　　箭头的长度增加

　　增加支撑高度

　　减少柱塞张力

　　字符串串数增加

　　使用规则的凹槽(引脚的凹槽使箭头)

　　使用较长的弓(72“和70”)

　　制箭法更严厉的方式：

　　减少弓重量

　　减点体重

　　减少箭头长度

　　降低支撑高度

　　提高柱塞张力

　　减少字符串链数

　　在常规使用销凹槽的凹槽

　　使用短弓(68“和70”)

　　*对于弓弦链数，增加链数都将使箭法较硬的它是一种常见的误解。这实际上是真的在非常低的链数(如10股bcy-8125);然而，较低的链数是不推荐用于宽恕的目的。一般而言，18股以上的，你就会注意到这股的增加会削弱箭。

　　调谐箭扣-一旦你显示一个可以接受的范围内的刚度赤裸的轴，你需要调整搭箭点到箭头的颠动到最小。

　　交替赤裸的和三百万拍摄的三轴和三轴赤裸的三百万，再以交替的方式。

　　如果赤裸的轴下面的土地则轴(在下面的图片，黄色箭头和箭尾)箭扣太高。正确的做法，把箭扣在字符串或移动箭头休息。

　　如果赤裸的轴上的土地则轴(在下面的图片，绿色箭头和箭尾)将搭箭点或箭休息下。

　　脊柱影响搭箭点牢记，箭头的刚度/弱点的调整可能会轻微影响最好搭箭点位置。换搭箭点可以影响箭头的脊柱一样，所以准备好见你的设置略有变化。